This is my, aka the Rok Krivec bike check that many of you have been asking for.
Let me tell you a little secret: I’ve never really done a video bike check in my life.
I’ve been postponing and postponing it (and I don’t really know why), but I finally made it happen.
I’m really stoked about it because my current bike setup is nearly perfect.
But it definitely is my favorite to date.
Rok Krivec Bike Check
Rok’s height: 5’11″ (180 cm)
Frame: Cult Biggie frame frame, 21.5″
Bar: Shadow Vultus S.G bar, 10″
Stem: Cult Redemption top load stem, 48mm
Fork: Shadow Thirteen fork, 13mm offset
Headset: Animal head set
Grips: Animal Edwin V2 grips, 165mm
Bar Ends: Odyssey Par Ends bar ends
Seat: Shadow Crow’d pivotal slim seat
Seat Post: BSD Blitzed seat post
Cranks: Animal Akimbo cranks, 160mm
Bottom Bracket: Shadow Stacked mid bottom bracket
Pedals: Shadow Surface plastic pedal
Sprocket: Shadow Sabotage sprocket
Chain: Shadow Interlock V2 chain
Front Wheel: Animal Javelin complete front wheel
Rear Wheel: Animal Javelin complete rear wheel
Hub Guards: Eclat Servo hub guards (front, drive and non-drive)
Pegs: 4 x BSD Rude Tube pegs, 4.5″
Tires: 2 x Shadow Creeper tires, 2.4″
As far as customizing my bike, I usually cut my bar to around 28″ or 28.5″ because it makes barspins easier.
I also removed all stickers and added some of my favorite black metal bands. (I was surprised at how hard it is to get band stickers.)
Moreover, I think the bike looks completely different this way, appearing more personalized – which I’m very into.
Many dudes also asked me about what PSI I ride. I ride around 65 PSI (sometimes a little less and sometimes a little more).
GET PARTS ROK RIDES:
- Cult Biggie Frame
- Shadow Vultus Bar
- Animal Akimbo Cranks
- Shadow Interlock V2 Chain
- Shadow Sabotage Sprocket
My Bike Is Nearly Perfect
Why did I mention earlier that my bike is nearly perfect?
Because I still need to do a few tweaks in parts. However, since I like to keep optimizing, I might never have a 100% perfect bike, or will I?
For instance, I am a fan of bikes built using only one or two brands – let’s say, one brand for the frame and one for the parts.
I’ve never been a fan of mixing a bunch of BMX brands together.
I’m not saying that’s wrong, it’s just I’m a little picky about how my bike should be.
Currently, I’m not at that stage, but that’s OK.
Fun fact: The only part I’ll likely never really change is Par ends – these things are the absolute best.
The only time I change them is when getting new grips. The bar ends that come with most of the grips wear out super quickly. (Sometimes, I don’t even use them and insert Par ends right away.)
Anyway, thanks for visiting!
And if you ever need any help with BMX, picking parts, or trick tips, feel free to send me an email through my website, comment on my YouTube videos, or via IG.
FAQs About Rok Krivec’s BMX Bike
Why do you ride a large frame?
The main reason for riding a large frame is the look. Second, modern street frames are very responsive, so the longer top tube doesn’t really have too big of an impact when the head tube is steep and the chainstay is short.
Why do you ride short fork offset?
I like to do a lot of nose manuals, and having a short offset fork definitely helps with that. It also makes spins easier, which I’m always down for.
Why do you ride 160mm cranks?
The one and only reason I ride short cranks is so I have some extra clearance between the heel of my back foot and the back peg. (Hitting my heel on my peg is the worst feeling ever.)
Why do you ride a 48mm reach stem?
I went down to 48mm (from 50mm) because the shorter stem brings the bar closer to the body, making barspins faster. But it also has a positive impact on nose manuals and spins. (Read: Do shorter stems make barspins easier.)
Why do you ride a 10″ bar?
I like my front end high because it gives me more control over the bike. Plus, I like the look of a 10″ BMX bar.
